Happy Sunday everyone!
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When asked if we would like chai and milk for breakfast Saturday, we thought they meant milk in our tea. The steamed glass of milk turned out to be an even tastier surprise after a long night! |
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Katherine enjoyed the carvings in the Buddhist temples, which each featured guards for the central Buddha idols. |
At the end of week 2 with our new Nav Jeevan family, Katie and I took some time for ourselves to learn a little more about our state of Maharashtra by traveling to the small city of Aurangabad for the weekend. Aurangabad, smaller than Nagpur, is known for its proximity to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We explored the caves at Ellora and the Daulatabad Fort during our brief stay, as well learning more about the silk weaving for which the region is famous. This post will guide you through our incredible journey with photos and a brief history, but also commentary about our thoughts and conversations which always seemed to flow back to Nav Jeevan and our students there.
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This Jain temple held several ultra-intricate small carvings. The caging on the front of the cave was put on by the Historical Society of Maharastra, India for protection from harm during the night. |
Katie and I left Nagpur on Friday (16 January) around 8pm. Planning our overnight bus ride went very smoothly and we felt the excitement build as we boarded the bus and found our little "sleeper," a small compartment bed the two of us were to share inside the bus for the night. Kindly, the driver double checked our ticket for us to make sure we were headed the right way and made sure we got off at the proper stop. The ride on the night bus was actually pretty smooth! Katie and I even decided the occasional honking was comforting since that is what we are now accustomed to hearing from our room at the school.
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The atrium of the Jain caves led to a central place of worship in the back. Much like the earlier Buddhist temples, the Jains used guard statues around main figures. |
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A Jain "mini-cave" preceded
the large cave as a place for preparation
for worship. This cave was carved directly
from the side of the cliff, similar
to the ones in the background. |
About 11 hours later, on Saturday morning, we arrived in Aurangabad and took a quick rickshaw ride to the hostel where we decided to stay during our visit, called Shree Maya. In case you are curious, the hostel was actually more like a hotel--we had our own room, hot water all the time, a tv, and wonderful receptionists at the desk that were excellent in helping us organize the rest of our sightseeing. The best part about our room, though, was that it was very affordable at about $14 USD for 24 hours.
After showering and breakfast of upma, poha, chai, and warm milk, we were ready to start the crux of our adventure. The receptionist, Jefer, planned a tour for us for the day. We asked for Jefer to organize a bus for us to go to the caves at Ellora. He assured us that there would be many people and that he would handle our arrangements and gave us a reasonable full day price. Though we were sure Jefer would accommodate us, we had no idea he was trying to say that he would hire us a private driver for the day!! So, like princesses, Katie and I were escorted to a private taxi waiting for us outside driven by our private driver, Rafi. Again, we were so happy this experience was within our PGlobal budget, and are so thankful for the generosity of our benefactors, Lee and Sally Posey.
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Katie and I experienced such astonishment inside the caves! There is an incredible feeling of wonder at just how intricate and symmetrical the work was, with nearly every space covered with carvings or paint, or both. |
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Katie and I took this photo in the largest
Hindu cave in Ellora. The statues shown are
depicting the marriage celebration of two Hindu gods. |
First, Rafi drove us to Ellora, about 30 kilometers from Aurangabad. Katie and I enjoyed the mesa tops that surrounded us as we drove and were excited to see the car climb higher toward the 34 caves. During our time in Ellora, we learned that the caves were carved from basalt rock by Bhuddist, Jain, and Hindu religious men to be used as temples and retreats. The caves date from as early as the 5th century AD to the 11th century AD. One of the most awe inspiring thing about the caves is that they are all one piece! Everything there is carved from existing rock rather than having extra rock brought into the caves for more pieces. Though each of the three religious traditions made their caves unique, many similarities exist: each has many pillars for support, images of various gods and goddesses that always depict stories and religious lore, attention to the most intricate of details such as graceful lotus flower decorations, and of course several elephants! Katie and I began our journey through these mysterious structures at cave #34 and worked our way back to #1, seeing about 30 of the caves. Personally, my favorite caves were the Jain caves, #34 through #30, which were smaller than the other caves, but held such beautiful carving work at every turn. Katie really enjoyed the largest Hindu cave which is unique in that is has 3 entrances, each guarded by a set of carved lions, rather than just 1 which is the case with the other structures. This particular cave held such enormous carvings of the Hindu gods that towered over everyone!
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The symmetry of the Buddhist caves helped
to provide their wonder. It also helped to draw
the eye towards central figures. This cave held
24 statues of the Buddha, each in specific poses. |
Totally enamored with the fact that the heavy, and at times foreboding, stone could be made into something so beautiful, Katie and I decided that we should keep moving. From the Ellora caves, we returned toward Aurangabad to go to the Daulatabad fort. But first, our driver stopped at the Silk Bazaar, a nice silk manufacturers' store where we learned about several types of silk/cotton blends and weaving methods. Katie purchased a beautiful orange, red, and black patterned scarf as a souvenir. It looks great on her!
Around 2pm we arrived at the Daulatabad fort. Exiting the car, our driver said to take our water, so I quickly grabbed it and we went on our way. There is no doubt that before the trek to the fort Katie and I realized it was a bit of a walk, but what we did not realize was that 615 steps (we think this is a SEVERELY low estimate....) lead to the top of the fort, where the lookouts were posted along with a cannon affectionately termed "Fort Breaker" as its power was used to crush enemy invaders. Construction began on the fort in the mid 13th century, though pieces were added as the fort changed hands into the 18th and even 19th centuries. We were most impressed with the three walls of defense around the fort and the fact that it towers 190 meters above the surrounding plain. From the summit, Katie and I continued to ogle the incredible view and took our time looking 360 degrees around us. We decided that the fort must still be standing today due to its incredible position.
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Inside the main worship chamber of the Buddhist caves, the
Buddha figure was always given the company of 12 more Buddhas
surrounding him. |
Exhausted from our climb and day in the sun, Katie and I thanked Rafi, our driver, and asked for a ride back to Shree Maya. He kindly dropped us off after making sure we knew how to get to "downtown" Aurangabad (downtown is a relative term for those of us that live in small towns...in bigger cities several parts of a town could be downtown!!) to do some people watching and city walking in the evening before dinner/dark. After a rest and showers, we decided to take advantafe of the remaining sunlight and walk around where Rafi suggested. I purchased a souvenir this time, choosing a beautiful peach colored cotton shroud from a small home decor shop.
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Atop the conical hill in the distance is the summit of the Daulatabad Fort to which Katie and I climbed! |
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At the top of the fort, we experienced a triumphant feeling having climbed all the steps. |
Dinner time was next for us, so we found some restaurants near Shree Maya! All of the restaurants looked pretty full of people, so we chose one on the end that advertised "South Indian food" on their banner. Luckily for us dessert lovers, this place only sold sweets!!! So, in true Katie and Katherine style, we ordered chai and dessert :). For both of us it cost about 80 cents. We then went to another restaurant just down the street and enjoyed dosas for dinner! We had our camera out to take a photo but were so hungry by the time they arrived that we forgot to take a photo before both of us consumed the whole meal!! Nevertheless, dosas are delicious thin crispy pancake like dough that has potatoes and spices inside. Dipping sauces poured on top make this dinner quite versatile as you can pair almost anything with it. Katie and I chose masala and coconut sauces.
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The beautiful view from the top of Daulatabad made all the sweating we did climbing worthwhile. |
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This spire is the only part of the fort made
from red sand stone like the Delhi fort rather
than the gray stone of the rest of the fort. |
The return bus ride home after such a short visit felt a little surreal. Waiting for our bus, we were sitting with some gentlemen, one an Indian engineering student and the other a musician from Spain backpacking through India. What interesting conversation we had to top off our journey! Each of these guys had great, interesting stories--the student about the Indian caste system and its effects on his life, and the musician about his passion for international music and little known instruments. Mid conversation our bus arrived. We left Sunday morning at midnight and were back at school by 9:30am. Realizing that our third week of school at Nav Jeevan was about to begin hit us sort of hard! What Katie and I realized though, reflecting on our adventure to Aurangabad, is that we are both committed to making positive impacts on our Nav Jeevan community while we are here.
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Katie enjoyed the picturesque view from under the crumbling arches
that signaled the entrance to the fort after crossing its three protective
walls. |